After our new year’s eve/day hike, we had two days rest, work and prep and then H and I were back on another overnight adventure - this time for three days with friends of ours to see how we would go as a group on a planned seven day hike later this year.
For this hike though, the plan was to head up Higgs Track to Lake Nameless and from there bush bash across to Lake Fermage or Lake Frank, then up to Lake Meander, the source of the Meander River, over Mt Ironstone, down to Whiteleys Hut and home on the Western Creek Track. Although we had been up Higgs Track to Lady Lake Hut before, we had never been beyond. So we were very much looking forward to exploring more of the Tiers/Kooparoona Niara and the plateau.
At the beginning of the hike crossing Dale Brook on Higgs Track.
Rising up through the rainforest section at the bottom of Higgs Track.
Entering the cloud forest near the top of Higgs Track.
Myrtle beech trees.
Alteration to the original Higgs Track. Turn left here.
Delicate, fragile alpine flora.
We met up in the morning at Neil’s place, our fearless navigator, and drove together to Higgs Track. We left one car there and another at Western Creek Track trailhead for the return. The slog up Higgs Track with full packs was done with many ‘puffy breaks’ - as Neil likes to call them. The clag or low cloud lifted by the time we reached the cloud forest and the party descended upon Lady Lake for a nudie swim and lunch break. The pineapple that H had been carrying was soon whipped out and cut up into pieces so we could all enjoy a refreshing munch and get rid of the excess weight.
Lady Lake, where the ladies go bathing.
The gang minus Kylie, who’s taking the photo.
As we left Lady Lake and headed up Lake Nameless track, we ascended to a point where we could look back and see the Meander and Mersey valleys in all their glory. That view gradually disappeared as the magnificence of the plateau gobbled us up. After an hour or so, Westons Lake came into view. We had heard from the others that the camp site there was rather spectacular so it was decided to stay the night there. We were welcomed by a large black tiger snake resting on the pencil pine by the lake. It soon got sick of the humans looking at it and disappeared into a crevice of a rocky outcrop. As the evening wore on and we sat together to cook and chat, the clag came in and added a sense of mystery and atmosphere.
View across the plateau towards Mt Ironstone in the distance right and Mother Cummings Peak and Head to the left.
On the way to Westons Lake.
Typical plateau terrain, heathy, rocky, undulating.
Bodies resting while dinner bubbles.
Tent site at Westons Lake.
Evening fog moves in.
Kylie and I were the first to wake early the next morning. While she had a leisurely morning swim in the lake, I climbed the rocky outcrop and had a wonderful view of the area. After breakfast, we decamped and headed off to Lake Nameless. It was decided to go directly to the hut, where another swim was enjoyed, and some of us went up to check out the hut. Another black tiger snake was spotted wandering down to the lake, where it plopped in and went for a swim.
Lake Nameless.
Crossing the numerous waterways.
Ironstone hut.
Cosy inside.
Forty Lakes Peak behind Ironstone hut.
Tiger snake heading to the lake for a swim.
Heading south, we continued off track to another lake and decided to have lunch at a grove of pencil pine trees. It was a wonderful shelter and we enjoyed a much needed break. After consulting the map, gps and other devices, we continued towards Lake Fermage, where again another snake, a small white lipped snake this time, was spotted. With Lake Fermage on our right, we changed course and headed for Lake Frank, not too far away. Another creek crossing and boulder hopping challenge presented itself and finally we arrived at the southern end of Lake Frank. Nobody knew if there was any good camping here, so we set off to the northern end to find out, and came to another picturesque grove of pencil pines with club ferns as soft ground cover.
The map readers: Kristina - it’s this way. Laurie - it’s that way. Neil - Let’s see what the compass says. Kylie - hang on a minute. Jasmin - I’m staying out of it. Hilde - Smile for the camera!
Heading towards Lake Furmage.
Camp site at Lake Frank.
It was debated if we should continue up the saddle behind us to Lake Meander or stay at Lake Frank for the night. As we were tired and it was getting late, the lure of the warm afternoon sun and beautiful aspect was too strong, so we setup camp at Lake Frank. Everyone had a swim in the lake, which was surprisingly warm. Dinner followed with good banter and mood, and soon it was time to find a pillow.
Stillness of the sunrise.
Pencil pines.
Reflections.
The next morning I got up early. There was no clag, and the lake was steaming and perfectly still with brilliant light and the odd bird gracefully gliding on the water. It was a photographer’s dream.
Lake Frank with clag.
And without…
The clag came and went repeatedly as everyone got up to have breakfast. Finally it cleared up as we headed up the saddle along more boulders to Lonely Lake and then Lake Meander. We followed the Meander River with the goal of looking at Meander Falls from above. Finding a good place to cross the river, we left our packs and hiked up to a lookout which gave us a view of the river running to the edge of the Tiers, but we weren’t able to see the falls or beyond. Still, it was more than enough to sit there and soak up the good vibes.
Packs off to seek out Meander Falls.
Love this shot. Two seasoned bushwalkers soaking up the beauty and magic of the bush.
Laurie holding his map and me holding my snacks.
After a lunch break, we put our packs back on and then made a beeline for Mt Ironstone. On the way we passed an enormous crop of pencil pines, something that is quite rare. It was obviously frequented by wombats and would have made an ideal camp site if needed, with soft ground cover, shelter and plenty of water nearby. A puffy break was taken here, and then the most clear grassy route was chosen up the southern end of Mt Ironstone.
We negotiated a field of scree before hitting Mt Ironstone’s plateau and a compass bearing was taken in order to cross it. The goal was to find the trig point marking Mt Ironstone. The compass bearing turned out to be spot on and after a gradual slog upwards we reached the trig point and were met with one of the most sensational views of the plateau and Tiers that I’ve ever seen.
On top of Mt Ironstone plateau.
Trig point on Mt Ironstone.
It was like soaring in the sky like a bird. Of course everything looked completely different than when you are at ground level, but we could make out all the major landmarks - Mt Roland, the Walls of Jerusalem, Cradle skyline, Mother Cummings, Ben Lomond, Wild Dog Tiers, the hundreds of lakes on the plateau and more.
Looking back across the terrain we had covered on New Year’s Eve and on this trip.
Looking at the gorge leading down Western Creek Track.
Below us we could see the tiny speck of Whiteleys Hut and the start of the gorge leading down Western Creek, our final destination. It all looked so close but we still had at least another four hours ahead of us. It was going to be a long day and we weren’t going to get back to the carpark until 9.30pm.
Nevertheless a tea break was enjoyed on the summit with the remains of our snacks and water. Kristina remembered a route she had taken up to Mt Ironstone ten years earlier, and took the challenge on of taking us down the mountain to the hut. A lot of bush bashing later, she found the track and lead us safely down the mountain to the hut. We stopped for fresh water at Western Creek and had a quick cuppa at the hut. The idea to stay the night at the hut was entertained, but I think we were all focused on getting down Western Creek track.
Looking back at the off track route we had taken down from Mt Ironstone.
Whiteleys Hut.
Following Western Creek Track.
Western Creek.
Crossing Western Creek.
Almost at the Western Creek loop junction. Meander Valley coming into view.
Western Creek Track is vastly different to the other tracks leading up through the Tiers to the plateau. As it follows a gorge down, the track is small, technical and precarious in places. But it is sensational and packed with gorgeous views, cascades, pools, and a sense of magic. You could almost imagine yourself being in Canada or Europe or even the Himalayas here. But it’s all Tasmania. The last puffy break was taken at the falls crossing, which now houses a brand new boardwalk bolted to the rock, rather than a wire to hang onto.
The loop trail was taken back to the carpark and we arrived just as it became dark. Each hike in the Tiers and on the plateau is rewarding, sensational, mind blowing and exciting. This hike had been these and a lot more. It was the dynamic as a group, the discovery of new places, and the sharing of being in the moment together that made it more than memorable.
Hiking in wilderness is special: everyday life is left behind and the reality of nature takes over. This is a wordless phenomenon that can only be experienced. Coming from such a place, you feel at peace and truly alive. Your body vibrates. This feeling and experience is addictive and you want to go back out as soon as possible to have more. But the key is to maintain this peace inside and take it with you wherever you go, regardless of what comes your way.
I look forward to the next adventure and further discovery of this absolutely amazing backyard that we have in Tasmania on our doorstep. Thank to all those who made this trip possible.
P.S. Never flick a leech off your finger. Hilde did just that and it landed in the corner of my eye, and proceeded to crawl underneath my eyelid to rest against my eyeball. I waited patiently in the car to be driven back to Chudleigh so I could use a saline wash to get rid of the little critter. Just in time, as it was starting to hurt. Hilde remarked the whole experience had been like a scene out of Alien and something she would never forget. :D