It started with a question to Neil, a friend in Western Creek, about what kind of hike he was going to do this year.
Last year, when I asked him the same question, he invited me and Hilde to hike with him along Moonlight Ridge to Precipitous Bluff and down to the South Coast Track. Unfortunately, the dates clashed with our work, so we weren’t able to accompany him, but he did show us photos of the hike and the route he took for future reference.
The first five minutes of the track is flat.
This time round Neil’s answer was the Western Arthurs, a mountain range in the Southwest National Park near Lake Pedder that attracts a lot of adventurers and hikers due to its remoteness, degree of difficulty and raw beauty.
Heading up to the saddle.
I should digress a bit and mention that Neil is well into his late 70’s, but for as long as I’ve known Neil, his age has never posed any kind of barrier to accomplishing whatever he sets his mind on doing, and some of the adventures that Neil has completed are impressive.
Steep, rocky trail leading into the cloud forest.
Not known for his love of marked tracks, Neil regularly hikes off track in Tasmania far from the maddening crowd. So while we were talking about doing the Western Arthurs, he mentioned that he was put off by the idea of having to register our group. Due to the Western Arthurs popularity and pristine natural heritage, the Traverse is limited to a certain number of hikers per day. But as this will be the only way we can hike it, Neil sees the merit in putting aside any minor annoyance for the ultimate reward of being there.
Waymarker
And if there was anyone who you’d want to do a Grade 5 multi-day hike with using ropes and pack hauling, then Neil is the one. I’ve been repeatedly told that there is no better outdoor adventurer than him as far as remote navigation and bushwalking skills are concerned. As Hilde and I are just beginning our bushwalking discovery of Tasmania, I couldn’t pass on the opportunity to hike with this very experienced Tassie hiker on one of the most challenging and stunning tracks in the State.
Up we go…
I immediately said we (me and Hilde) would join him and soon spread word of the hike to a few others. Kristina and Laurie, who both thought they had missed the boat with hiking the Western Arthurs, grabbed the opportunity to do it - especially as they are good friends with Neil and therefore secure in the knowledge that he can make the hike a successful endeavour.
Rock wall signalling where the loop starts.
Laurie and Kristina, together with Neil and his wife Helen, are active members of the Friends of the Great Western Tiers environmental group, which has been fighting for the conservation of the Great Western Tiers / Kooparoona Niara for many decades, securing world heritage status for the area through their combined efforts. So, Hilde and I will be in esteemed company indeed.
The first view.
As soon as Laurie booked our passage on the Western Arthurs Traverse, I suggested that we do a few group hikes to get to know one another’s hiking style. We came up with a loose training plan for the challenge ahead and even agreed on a Plan B (destination Lake Oberon) in case we don’t make the whole Western Arthurs circuit.
Scree crossing.
The first ‘training’ hike with our group took place last Sunday up to Mother Cummings Peak, the distinctive pyramidal bluff that is iconic of the Meander and Western Creek end of the Great Western Tiers / Kooparoona Niara.
A cool rock and view out to Gog Range and Chudleigh area.
It’s a relatively short hike in terms of time and distance, but it is a steep one, and just like every other hike leading up to the Tiers it differs in vegetation, beauty and aspect, passing through pockets of tea tree, myrtle and bedfordia.
The Central Plateau and Mt Ironstone.
The pace was measured and tempered, which was very nice, as we made our way up to the summit. The weather was perfect, which made it all the more stunning with 360 degree views for lunch. From Mt Roland, Western Bluff, to Chudleigh, Bass Strait, Montana, Meander, Huntsman Lake and Mt Ironstone, Mother Cummings Peak provides a unique overview of the whole amazing region we live in.
View back to Mother Cummings Head and Meander Forest Reserve.
We chose to do the Mother Cummings Peak loop rather than the scramble up and down the same summit track. The loop takes a bit longer, but it is far more scenic and brings you to a saddle or inverted treeline area between the plateau and Mother Cummings Head with tracks leading southwards to Meander Forest Reserve and Smoko Creek gully.
Heading down the loop track with Huntsman Lake, Meander Dam and Mother Cummings Head in view.
The saddle is a pretty alpine meadow with an abundance of miniature ecosystems, and looked like a fantastic place to camp and spend a few days exploring and enjoying the peace and quiet of the plateau.
Mountain rocket so named for its shape not its culinary use.
All up it took four hours to complete the hike. The elevation on top of Mother Cummings Peak is over 1200 metres, with a higher trailhead start than most of the tracks leading up to the plateau.
Looking at the saddle with its inverted treeline, the boggy area gets very cold in winter in comparison to the higher altitude trees surrounding it.
We were joined by Deb Hunter, the Mole Creek Karst caving expert and good friend, and although Hilde and I were the youngest in the group, we all hiked well together and enjoyed the good experience, knowledge and cheer shared.